If you're shopping for emerald jewelry, one of the first decisions you'll face is whether to choose a natural or lab-created stone. Both are real emeralds with the same chemical composition, but they come from very different places and carry distinct characteristics worth understanding before you buy. This guide covers the practical differences, what to look for in each, and how to decide which is right for you.
Natural and lab-created emeralds are chemically identical, both rate 7.5 to 8 on Mohs, and both are real emeralds. Natural stones have unique inclusions (jardins), tonal variation, and hold value better over time. Lab-created stones are cleaner, more consistent, more affordable, and sometimes marginally more durable. Choose natural for heirloom pieces and unique character; choose lab-created for everyday wear, gifts, and budget-conscious buyers.
What they have in common
Natural and lab-created emeralds are both beryl minerals with the same chemical formula (Be₃Al₂Si₆O₁₈) and the same source of green color: trace amounts of chromium and vanadium. They share the same hardness, the same refractive index, and the same crystal structure. A lab-created emerald is not a simulant or imitation. It is a real emerald grown in a controlled environment rather than mined from the earth.
How natural emeralds form
Natural emeralds form deep within the earth's crust over millions of years under specific conditions of heat, pressure, and mineral composition. The world's most significant deposits are in Colombia, Zambia, and Brazil, though emeralds are also found in Afghanistan, Russia, and parts of Africa. Because the conditions required to form emeralds are rare, high-quality natural stones are scarce, which is a major factor in their price.
Nearly all natural emeralds contain visible inclusions, tiny internal features formed during the stone's growth. In the emerald world, these are called jardins (French for gardens) because they often resemble organic, plant-like patterns. Unlike diamonds, where clarity is paramount, emerald inclusions are widely accepted and even appreciated as part of the stone's individual character. No two natural emeralds look exactly alike.
How lab-created emeralds are made
Lab-created emeralds are grown using one of two primary methods: the flux process or the hydrothermal process. Both replicate the natural conditions under which emeralds form, but in weeks or months rather than millions of years.
In the flux process, emerald components are dissolved in a molten flux at high temperatures and allowed to crystallize slowly; this method can take up to a year for larger stones. The hydrothermal process uses water and pressure to grow crystals around a seed, producing emeralds more efficiently. Both methods yield stones that are chemically and structurally identical to natural emeralds, with one key visual difference: lab-created emeralds typically have far fewer inclusions, and their color tends to be more uniform without the subtle tonal variations natural emeralds display.
Natural vs lab-created at a glance
Five differences that matter when buying
1. Inclusions and character
Natural emeralds almost always contain visible inclusions (jardins). These aren't defects; they're part of what makes each stone unique. Lab-created emeralds have fewer or no inclusions, resulting in a cleaner, more uniform appearance. If you value one-of-a-kind character, natural emeralds deliver that. If you prefer a consistent, clear look, lab-created is the way to go.
2. Color
Natural emeralds display a range of greens with subtle tonal variations influenced by their origin. Colombian emeralds tend toward a warm, slightly bluish green; Zambian stones often lean cooler and darker. Lab-created emeralds produce a consistent, saturated green without these natural variations. Neither is better; it comes down to whether you prefer depth and complexity or clean uniformity.
3. Price
Lab-created emeralds cost significantly less than natural emeralds of comparable size and color. A natural emerald's price reflects its rarity, origin, and the cost of mining; lab-created stones remove those variables. For everyday jewelry or gifts where budget matters, lab-created emeralds offer strong value. For heirloom or investment pieces, natural emeralds hold their value better over time.
4. Durability
Both rate 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale, so their scratch resistance is the same. However, natural emeralds with heavy inclusions can be slightly more prone to chipping along internal fracture lines. Lab-created stones, with fewer inclusions, are sometimes considered marginally more durable in practice. Either way, emeralds require more care than sapphires or diamonds.
5. Treatments
Most natural emeralds on the market have been treated with oil or resin to fill surface-reaching fractures and improve clarity. This is an industry-standard practice, accepted and expected. Lab-created emeralds generally don't require treatment because they have fewer inclusions to begin with. Reputable jewelers disclose all treatments.
How to tell them apart
To the naked eye, a high-quality lab-created emerald and a natural emerald can look very similar. A trained gemologist can distinguish them using magnification and spectroscopy. Key indicators include growth patterns (natural emeralds show three-phase inclusions; lab-created stones show flux or hydrothermal growth features) and the type and distribution of inclusions.
For buyers, the most reliable way to know what you're getting is to purchase from a jeweler who clearly labels each stone. At Erin Gallagher Jewelry, our product listings specify "Emerald-Nat" for natural and "Emerald-Lab" for lab-created, so there is never any guessing.
Which should you choose?
There's no wrong answer. Both are real emeralds. Here's a practical framework:
Choose Natural If
- You value unique character and organic beauty
- You want a stone with jardins and tonal variation
- You're buying an heirloom or milestone piece (20th or 55th anniversary)
- You appreciate that the stone formed over millions of years
- Long-term value retention matters to you
Choose Lab-Created If
- You want a clean, consistent green with fewer inclusions
- Budget is a factor and you want the most stone for your money
- You're buying for everyday wear and want peace of mind about durability
- You prefer a more sustainable production process
- The piece is a gift or a first emerald in your collection
Shopping for a May birthday or anniversary?
Emerald is May's birthstone and the traditional gift for 20th and 55th wedding anniversaries. Our May birthstone collection includes necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings, and charms in both natural and lab-created emerald, plus fully custom pieces through GemBar, our live design tool.
Shop May Birthstone JewelryCaring for your emerald jewelry
Whether natural or lab-created, emerald care is the same:
- Clean gently. Mild soap and warm water with a soft brush; rinse well and pat dry.
- Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners. They can damage oiled treatments and weaken the stone along inclusion lines.
- Skip the harsh stuff. No bleach, acetone, chlorine, or strong household cleaners.
- Last on, first off. Apply lotions, perfume, and hairspray before putting on emerald pieces; remove before workouts, swimming, and cleaning.
- Store separately. Keep emerald away from harder stones like diamonds and sapphires to prevent scratches.
Emerald, made to order
Every piece below is handcrafted in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, set with ethically sourced emerald, and built to be worn. Up to ten business days in production, shipped in eco-friendly gift-ready packaging. Orders over $150 ship free.
Frequently asked
Is a lab-created emerald a real emerald?
Yes. A lab-created emerald has the identical chemical composition, crystal structure, hardness, and optical properties as a natural emerald. It is a real emerald grown in a controlled environment instead of mined from the earth.
How much less does a lab-created emerald cost?
Pricing varies by size and quality, but lab-created emeralds typically cost a fraction of natural emeralds of comparable color and clarity. The savings are most dramatic at larger carat weights.
Will a lab-created emerald hold its value?
Lab-created emeralds generally don't appreciate the way natural stones can, because supply isn't constrained the same way. If long-term value matters, choose natural. If wearability and beauty matter, lab-created delivers both.
Are emeralds durable enough for daily wear?
Yes, with care. Emeralds rate 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, which is durable, but they require more attention than sapphires or diamonds. Bezel settings and protected pendants are best for daily wear; remove rings during workouts and physical work.
Is lab-created more sustainable than natural?
Lab-created stones avoid the environmental footprint of mining. Many buyers prefer them for that reason, though some natural emerald operations also follow strong ethical and environmental standards. We disclose stone origin on every piece.
What's the traditional anniversary gift for emerald?
Emerald is the traditional gift for both the 20th and 55th wedding anniversaries, and it's also May's birthstone.
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Also shopping sapphire? Read our Sapphire Buying Guide for the same natural vs lab-created breakdown, or browse all our Birthstone Guides.